| 湖南通道侗族织锦技艺调查 |
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| 引用本文： | 章梅芳,姜凯云,刘兵.湖南通道侗族织锦技艺调查[J].北京科技大学学报(社会科学版),2016,32(6):40-51. |
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| 作者姓名： | 章梅芳 姜凯云 刘兵 |
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| 作者单位： | 北京科技大学科技史与文化遗产研究院;清华大学科技与社会研究所 |
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| 摘 要： | 文章结合文献和田野调查，对湖南通道侗族自治县的侗族织锦技艺(以下简称通道侗锦)的基本类型与制作工序进行了详细梳理与总结。通道侗锦按颜色可分为素锦和彩锦，按用途可分为日用锦、寿锦、法锦等，根据织造工具不同可分为机织锦和手工编织花带，根据构图方式可分为大花锦和小花锦；侗锦有斜织机和木梳式手工编织两种织造方式，其中斜织机织锦有十三道主要工序，每一道工序都没有图谱，仅靠织娘口耳相传。通道侗锦是侗族传统生活方式的重要组成部分，丰富多彩的纹样是侗族民间信仰的符号化表征，它的保护与传承需要唤醒当地织娘的文化自觉，营造良好的整体文化生态；同时还必须在传统与创新之间不断调试，既实现对技艺及其文化内涵的坚守与保护，同时又能实现创新和传承。
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| 关 键 词： | 侗族织锦 传统工艺 湖南通道 |
| 收稿时间： | 2016-03-15 |
A Preliminary Investigation of the Traditional Technology of Dong Brocade in Tongdao of Hunan Province |
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| ZHANG Mei-fang,JIANG Kai-yun,LIU Bing.A Preliminary Investigation of the Traditional Technology of Dong Brocade in Tongdao of Hunan Province[J].Journal of University of Science and Technology Beijing(Social Sciences Edition),2016,32(6):40-51. |
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| Authors: | ZHANG Mei-fang JIANG Kai-yun LIU Bing |
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| Affiliation: | 1. Institute of Cultural Heritage and History of Science & Technology, University of Science and Technology Beijing, Beijing 100083, China;2. Institute of Science, Technology and Society, Tsinghua University, Beijing 100084, China |
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| Abstract: | Basing on the literature researches and fieldworks, this paper classifies and summarizes the basic types and produc-tion processes of the Dong Brocade crafts in Tongdao of Hunan Province. They are always divided into the plain brocade and the colorful one by the color. They are also classified as the daily brocade, the longevity brocade, the lord brocade and so on by function. Moreover, they also can be classified according to weaving tools as the machine and hand woven ones, and the big brocade and the floret brocade by the composition. There are two ways of making. One is made by the oblique loom and the oth-er by a special kind of wooden comb. The process of making by oblique loom is very complex and includes thirteen steps. There are no any textbooks or atlas for women weaver during the whole process, and they always teach others orally. It concludes Dong Brocade constitutes an important part of traditional lifestyle of Dong people. The colorful patterns are the symbolic representation of Dong people’s cultural tradition and beliefs. Waking up the local people’s cultural consciousness and creating a good cultural environment are the most important things for the protection and inheritance for the Dong Brocade. Meanwhile, we should main-tain the right balances between tradition and innovation. It means we should try our best to achieve the aim of guarding and pro-tecting for this hand-made technology when we strive for technological innovation. |
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| Keywords: | Dong Brocade traditional crafts Tongdao of Hunan Province |
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