Herbert Blumer and the Study of Fashion: A Reminiscence and A Critique

Recounting my late 1940s graduate student contacts with Herbert Blumer on the topic of fashion, 1 go on to assess his important contribution to the sociological study of fashion. Conceptually rich, the corpus of Blumer's writing on fashion is yet surprisingly small. His major opus on fashion, anticipated only in part by several of his earlier, less exhaustive writings on the subject, did not see print until 1969 with the publication of the justly famous Sociological Quarterly piece “Fashion: From Class Differentiation to Collective Selection.” There Blumer pursues two aims: (1) to challenge the then prevalent functionalist view of fashion as a “trickle down” symbolic mechanism for effecting social class differentiation, a view associated with such sociological eminences as Simmel and Veblen, and (2) to offer in its place his own quite original approach to fashion as a massive “collective selection” process wherein choices are guided more by the elusive lure of modernity than by invidious class tinctions as such. Prominent among the strengths of Blumer's position is the demonstrably greater empirical validity of “collective selection” as compared to “class differentiation.” Among its shortcomings are Blumer's slighting of a salient social psychological theme in Simmers dialectical approach to fashion and, more important, his failure to address in any sustained way the role of the fashion industry in the fashion process. The recently emerging, symbolic interactionist concept of social world offers a means for redressing this omission and for advancing further upon the ground opened by Herbert Blumer's still exciting breakthrough in the sociology of fashion.     

A Legal Perspective on Sexuality and Organization: A Lesbian and Gay Case Study

This article argues the case for incorporating legal discourse into social theories relating to sexuality and organization. The central theme around which this argument is constructed is that of the heteronormativity of the workplace which is critically interrogated by adopting perspectives of lesbian and gay workers. The processes through which this heteronormativity is maintained are examined with particular emphasis on how notions of public and private are strategically deployed to this end. The legal case study evaluates judicial discourse in court judgments noting how it contributes to and reinforces heteronormative practices. Examples are drawn from litigation in the UK and in Germany, illustrating the broad range of discursive techniques in use which in part vary according to the qualities of the legal norm at issue.     

A Conscious and Inclusive Family Studies

I argue that family scholars must take bolder steps to engage the tensions between our heritage of positivist science and its postmodern challenges. I also argue that constructing theories, utilizing research methods, and examining substantive issues should be relevant to the diversity of the families we study and to ourselves as members of families. I offer examples of developing an informed reflexive consciousness to broaden the rationalist foundation that dominates family scholarship. For a more inclusive, balanced, and invigorated family studies, our subjective experiences and commitments as researchers should be acknowledged, confronted, and integrated. A family studies that is responsible to our readers, students, selves, and the people whose lives we study requires that we engage the critical intersections of race, class, gender, sexual orientation, and age as they define family diversity.     

A Dental Program Evaluation and Follow-up

Abstract

College-aged individuals are at risk for bicycle-related head injuries, but the risk of such injuries can be reduced by their use of bicycle helmets. The objective of this research was to measure the rate of bicycle helmet use by university bicyclists at a large public university in the southwestern United States at three different times. Bicyclists riding onto campus were observed as they rode through a main campus entrance in 1985, 1990, and 1994, and the percentage of bicyclists who were wearing a helmet was recorded. The bicyclists were unaware that their helmet use was being monitored. In 1985, 10% of bicyclists were wearing helmets; in 1990, only 4.4% wore helmets. In 1994, the proportion of helmet-wearing bicyclists had increased to 24%. Although the sample sizes were small, the 1994 increase was statistically significant. The reasons for the increase are unclear, and further study is needed to identify factors related to university bicyclists' use of bicycle helmets.     

A CAMERA WITH A VIEW JenniCAM, visual representation, and cyborg subjectivity

Hailed as the originator of the digital camera 'homecam' phenomenon, Jennifer Ringley has garnered national media attention for her website, JenniCAM (Ringley 1998c), which offers viewers a constant window into the bedroom of a young woman through internet technology. Using the JenniCAM website as my primary text, I examine how Jenni integrates flesh and machine in the formation and display of a cyborg subjectivity, a hybridized identity (re)presented through the new technology of the digital camera. Towards that end I use feminist film theory to demonstrate how the construction and display of the female body-via the medium of digital camera-transforms our readings of gendered bodies as sites of knowledge production and pleasure. I assert that JenniCAM, a cyborg subject created through the integration of the electronic image and the internet, exposes more than just flesh. JenniCAM reveals cultural tensions surrounding epistemological conceptions of vision, gender, and identity and raises questions for future conversations regarding the role of technology in the representation and construction of gendered subjects.     

A Response To Sundberg and Michael

The Analysis of Verbal Behavior -     

A Study of Utilization and Satisfaction

This article describes the utilization and satisfaction patterns of Native Hawaiian elders with the Ke Ola Pono No Na Kupuna ("Good Health and Living for the Elderly") project funded under Title VI-B of the Older Americans Act. Data were collected through a self-administercd questionnaire. Its unique, one of a kind, culturally specific program, which includes traditional Native Hawaiian meals, has a number of implications for policy considerations in designing aging programs that can serve ethnic minority aged more effectively..Changes in current federal policy that would enable federally mandated aspects of programs to provide for greater flexibility in providing culturally relevant programs and services for ethnic minorities would help to surmount some of the current problems and barriers to service delivery and utilization by ethnic minority groups. Allowing for greater involvement of ethnic minorities in program design will help to assure culturally relevant and appropriate activities and services and may increase the likelihood of success due to a sense of personal ownership and self-responsibility on the part of those involved.     

A Delicate People and Their Dogs

Abstract In the midst of the great depression, with a large number of people hovering on the edge of starvation, the government of Newfoundland decided to insist that all dogs be licensed - for a fee. Unfolding the enforcement process permits us to see how suffering and domination become dynamically intertwined, and in the mesh of this moving net the concept of 'subsistence production' can be caught and brought more clearly into history.     

伟大的诗人民族的骄傲--从《仿古兰经》看普希金的伊斯兰情结

2002年6月6日,是普希金诞生203周年纪念日,适逢上海合作组织成员国圣彼得堡峰会开幕前夕,中国国家主席江泽民来到普希金的母校皇村中学访问,他不仅对普希金的作品给予高度评价,并在他的铜像前用俄语吟诵了一首普希金的诗,而且还为普希金纪念馆题词:"伟大的诗人,民族的骄傲".