中古士族与时尚——围绕服饰、语言与礼仪的观察与思考

中古时代的士族,曾在衣着服饰、语言以及礼仪等方面,创造和追求新异样式,如鹤氅裘、洛生咏、书仪等,以展现独立个性和自我。这种由士族创造、引导的时尚,源于其所代表的文化优势,超越了阶级界限,为士庶社会所普遍欣赏和仿效,又对当时的社会政治、文化生活产生了重要影响。士族时尚的变化,也折射出社会和时代的变迁。

Nobles and Their Fashions from Han Dynasties to Tang Dynasty:Observation an Reflection on Clothing,Dialects,and Etiquette

From Han Dynasties to Tang Dynasty,in pursuit of expressing individual characters,Nobles had been leading the fashions in clothing,dialects,and social etiquette,with notable examples of Luochangqiu(a type of coat),Luoshengyong(a accent of scholars in Luoyang),and model for letters.These fashions,though initiated and led by nobles and rooted in their advanced culture,finally broke the class boundaries,got appreciated and imitated by lower classes,and casted great influence on social,political,and cultural wa...