时尚审美的具象观念史——以试衣间的形式变迁为例

试衣间是时尚审美活动的起点，其形式变迁更是时尚审美观念史的具象性缩影，但当前学界并未有效阐释试衣间的文化意义。敞开型试衣间中汇聚着交错的凝视目光，它们用多层次的判断标准塑造了试衣者的社会性形象，这呈现了古典时尚的他者指向性和时尚审美的他律性。封闭型试衣间中聚集着自我反身性的审视目光，它用个性化的判断标准决定了试衣者的个人形象，这展现了现代时尚的自我指向性和时尚审美的自律性。虚拟型试衣间中弥散着不断滑移的瞥视，它们用碎片化的判断标准拼凑着试衣者的虚拟形象，这体现了现代时尚的极端化和时尚审美的游戏化。时尚文化的不断发展为日常生活增添了审美的维度，但时尚文化的极端化又导致了美学陷阱的产生。时尚虽能唤醒审美感官，但却需要谨慎待之。

A History of Visualized Epitome in Fashion Aesthetics: The Historical Change of the Fitting Room as A Case

The fitting room is the starting point of fashion aesthetic activity and the change of the fitting room''s form is the visualized epitome of the fashion aesthetics. However, current studies have not illuminated the cultural significance of fitting rooms. The open fitting room is full of interlaced gaze, which shapes the wearer''s social identity by multilayer standards. It indicates the other directivity of classical fashion and the heteronomy of fashion aesthetics. The closed fitting room is filled with self-reflection, which constructs the wearer''s image by the personal standards. This process illustrates the self directivity of modern fashion and the self-discipline of fashion aesthetics. The virtual fitting room consists by glance, which pieces together the wearer''s virtual image by fragmented standards. This pattern shows the exaggeration of modern fashion and the gamification of fashion aesthetics. The development of fashion adds an aesthetic dimension to modern daily life, but the extremalization of fashion might lead to the aesthetic traps. Although fashion can awaken the aesthetic sense, it should be treated cautiously.