Women's Fashion in the 1920s

THIS old photo shows four fashionable women wearing the new style of clothes popularized in the 1920s. All of the women are wearing high-collared, tight-fitting upper jackets. The two in the middle are in fashionably long skirts. The black-and-white picture does not show us the color of the clothes, but inferring from the colors in vogue at the time, the skirts must be black and the jackets either black or blue. There are variations in the style of their upper garments; some have buttons on the right or in the middle, others edged with lace on the collars and cuffs and some are decorated with embroidery. The hems are both rounded and square. All feature close-fitting cuffs in an eye-catching white or colored style. It is said that this     

Nikolai Gogol'’s Self-Fashioning in the 1830s: The Postcolonial Perspective

This study examines Gogol'’s complex self-fashioning during the time of the creation and reception of his Ukrainian tales Vechera na khutore bliz Dikan'ki [Evenings on a Farm near Dikan'ka] (1831–1832) in light of the postcolonial concept of mimicry. Gogol'’s self-fashioning is studied through his submission to the symbolic power responsible for branding him as the Other in imperial Russian culture, as well as through his deliberate strategy of mimicry. Not only did Gogol'’s marginal social status and his Ukrainian ethnicity create a social hierarchy responsible for fashioning him as “an outsider within” imperial culture, Gogol' himself engaged in the colonial mimicry, trying to reverse the colonial gaze that imagined him as a “sly” Ukrainian. Challenging the accepted view of Gogol' as one who internalized the colonial stereotype of a “sly” Ukrainian, this study treats Gogol'’s identity as strategic, positional, and ambivalent. The first part of the study focuses on the manipulation of stereotypes of the Other within the Russian nationalist imagination in the early 1830s; the second part examines Gogol'’s ambivalent visual self-representation and social performance that simultaneously mimicked and menaced the colonial authority.     

Servicing the body: placing glasses on the client’s head at the opticians

Various forms of service work rely upon personnel undertaking activities that necessitate close, and in some cases potentially intimate, contact with a client’s body. In this paper, we consider the ways in which opticians place and position glasses on the head of their clients and how they avoid, or at least ameliorate, the problems and sensitivities that might arise in this close encounter with the co-participant. The paper is based on the analysis of a substantial corpus of video-recordings, augmented by field work, undertaken both in UK and Denmark. The analysis draws on ethnomethodology and conversation analysis and contributes to our understanding of the interactional accomplishment of body work and embodied conduct and to the growing corpus of research concerned with ‘multimodality’ and the social organisation of service encounters.     

A Township Girls' School in the 1920s

THIS old photograph, taken in the early 1920s, was passed down to me by my eldest sister, an educator. It is a group photo of students from Fanzhen Girls' Primary School, a church school in Xinan Township, Anxin County in Zhili (now Hebei) Province. In the school, which was located by my hometown of Baiyangdian, 43 students of varying ages and grades studied in a single classroom. The middle-aged     

Transforming the public sphere: the case of Moscow’s city libraries

ABSTRACT

This article aims to explore the link between civil society and the public sphere in present-day Russia by studying a recent library reform project in Moscow. In 2013, a comprehensive reconstruction of Moscow's network of 448 public libraries was initiated by a group of intellectuals, architects and urbanists. The project team aimed at modernizing Moscow's city libraries by making them more accessible and appealing to the public. The reconstruction gained support from the city administration that sought to strengthen the function of public libraries as cultural and educational institutions and, at the same time, improve the city's image in the eyes of its citizens. The article poses the question of whether this reform has been successful in making Moscow's city libraries more open, accessible and inviting for the public, and whether the reform has contributed to the development of a public sphere in the city by providing new spaces for participation and civic engagement. The article explores the reform process based on interviews with key informants and document analysis. It looks into the project objectives, its implementation process and its legacy. The analysis of the library reform project revealed contradictory results, as the reform did not develop beyond the pilot phase, but was stopped due to fading support from the city administration. Overall, the library reform thus remained an unfinished process. For developing the public sphere, the legacy of the reform project is ambivalent. On the one hand, the project has proved that creating new public spaces in Moscow is possible. On the other hand, it showed that the public sphere remains limited in today's Russia, as civic initiatives cannot develop beyond a cultural niche project. Due to a lack of political support for societal pluralism, a true autonomous public sphere remains beyond reach in present-day Russia.     

Beyond the visual: panoramatic attractions in the 1900 World’s Fair

The 1900 World’s Fair congregated a large number of attractions that revolutionised the tradition of panorama. These attractions were complex devices: often, they incorporated highly technological advances and played a vital role in the emergence of an entertainment culture. In this paper, I attempt to reconstruct three of these devices through an examination of archival material: the Maréorama, which followed the tradition of simulating a journey; the Globe Céleste, which was similar to today’s planetariums; and the Phono-cinéma-théâtre, which, following the example of the Théâtroscope, was based on the representation of a stage performance. All three of these combined visual, sound and scenic effects. I will try to interpret how the visual experience was complemented by other sensory stimuli, such as sounds and smells, as well as by the immersive nature of the devices. My aim is to investigate what these attractions, as material objects, may have contributed to overcoming a merely visual conceptualisation of perception. Also, the paper explores how the fin de siècle culture appears to have assumed this new perspective, as reflected by its objects, and examines its relationship with the incipient mass culture.     

Carl Schmitt’s politics in the age of drone strikes: examining the Schmittian texture of Obama’s enemy

When George Bush declared to his global audience that they were either ‘with us or against us’, he appeared to directly invoke the Schmittian antithesis of friend vs. enemy. Against the historical backdrop of Bush’s war on terror, and the scholarly attention his foreign policy received in relation to Carl Schmitt’s concept of the political, this paper examines whether the Obama administration’s targeted killing regime has marked a departure from Schmitt’s paradigms of war and enmity. Focusing specifically upon the rapid increase in use of drone strikes during Barack Obama’s presidency, this paper argues that the production of the enemy’s abstractness and drive for its annihilation together push at the limits of the Schmittian political logic. However, rather than denoting the point at which political relations are unexplainable through a Schmittian lens, this paper proposes that this produced enemy and its treatment in drone ‘warfare’ obfuscates the lines between a complex of Schmittian paradigms.     

Peering into the Abyss: Andreev’s Rejoinder to Tolstoi’s Kreutzer Sonata

This essay argues that Leonid Andreev’s (1871–1919) short story “The Abyss” (Bezdna) is an important and often misunderstood response to Lev Tolstoi’s (1828–1910) novella Kreutzer Sonata (Kreitserova Sonata), representing a fundamental shift in the way that pessimistic philosophy and degeneration theory would be incorporated into the cultural, intellectual and literary discourse of the Russian fin de siècle. For Andreev, intellectual currents were suggesting that civilized society was under attack by forces beyond its control. Tolstoi, however, asserted that celibacy and mortification of the flesh could conquer humanity’s primitive urges. In response, Andreev animated popular theories on sexual degeneracy to reject moral restraint as an option against sexual aggression. This rejoinder is significant for many reasons, not the least of which as an important intellectual segue between Tolstoi and subsequent decadent literary discourse on sexuality. After all, morality was no longer solely resident within religious thought in fin de siècle Russia, especially in light of mounting evidence that moral insanity was the result of hereditary taints and biological regression. Consequently, “The Abyss” should be reinterpreted as an important intellectual bridge between what would be deemed high- and lowbrow literature on human sexuality at the turn of the century.     

Britain’s Labor Market Under the Blair Governments

Since the Labor Party returned to power in 1997, a substantial increase in employment regulation has occurred in the United Kingdom. Britain has enacted new laws on labor union recognition, introduced a national minimum wage, enhanced employment protection legislation, strengthened anti-discrimination legislation, and imposed many new obligations on employers. Employment regulation should not, however, be looked at in isolation. The potential for job loss implicit in some of the Blair administrations’ regulation has been offset by other factors which have broadly supported labor market flexibility. This does not mean that further regulation can be imposed with impunity. Although the UK labor market continues to perform better than those of the large continental European economies, its competitiveness may be slipping. When Mr. Blair retires, the prospects may deteriorate.

On the probability of observing Borda’s paradox

Previous studies have shown that, when voters’ preferences become more internally consistent or mutually coherent, the probability of observing Condorcet’s Paradox of cyclic majorities is reduced and tends to zero, in accordance with intuition. The current study shows that the impact of an increasing degree of mutual coherence among voters’ preferences on the likelihood of observing Borda’s Paradox is much more subtle and more difficult to analyze. The degree of the impact in this case depends both on the measure of mutual coherence that is considered and on the voting rule that is used. In some circumstances, the probability that Borda’s Paradox will occur actually increases when voters’ preferences become more internally consistent.     

He who pays the piper,calls the tune? Examining Russia’s and Poland’s public diplomacy efforts to shape the international coverage of the Smolensk crash

The study explores Polish and Russian governments’ communication efforts to shape international news coverage of the 2010 airplane crash near Smolensk, Russia, which killed the Polish President Lech Kaczynski and most of his Cabinet. More specifically, the study attempts to assess the role of government communication in shaping the international agenda regarding the crash vis-à-vis the role of Polish and Russian media outlets which also served as information sources for international media. In addition, it examines politico-cultural proximity and economic relatedness as the factors influencing the outcomes of mediated public diplomacy efforts. The findings suggest that, in addition to the governments’ public relations messages, Polish and Russian news outlets played a significant role as their countries’ advocates in determining the international media agenda. Moreover, we found that it was economic relatedness rather than the similarity of culture or political systems that contributed to the success of governments in shaping the international agenda about the crash. Theoretical and practical implications for public relations and public diplomacy are discussed.     

Dowry in the absence of the legal protection of women’s inheritance rights

Review of Economics of the Household - The practice of dowry is often thought to be the root cause of the unequal treatment of girls in India, as represented by sex-selective abortion and female...     

Exploring the Potential of Shadow Controls in the Evaluation of Children’s Services

This article describes and presents a framework for an under‐used evaluation technique in the context of an evaluation of a programme for disaffected young people. Shadow controls—the use of expert judgement to estimate the success of a programme—are often dismissed in research design as an unreliable form of comparison, but can be useful in situations where there is limited scope for a control group or to enhance the causal inference attributable to non‐experimental evaluations. The exercise described uses a practice tool as a structure for making predictions about the situations of the young people on the programme, assuming they do not receive an intervention. These predictions (shadow controls) are then compared to outcome data for the young people at the end of the programme. The results of the exercise provide some important messages about the programme’s effectiveness and the potential for strengthening non‐experimental evaluation methods. The article also discusses how the method can usefully inform evaluations of social programmes and encourage agency and user collaboration.