Of maids' uniforms and blue jeans: The drama of status ambivalences in clothing and fashion

Culturally derived ambivalences of social identity lie at the heart of much that is communicated by clothing and fashion. In the West gender, age, sexual and social status identities are all subject to such vacillating clothing impulses and representations. In the instance of social status a culturally encoded tension generated by, at one end, a class based system of invidious distinctions and, at the other, a Judeo-Christian ethic of asceticism and modesty has for some seven hundred years now propelled an ongoing identity dialectic of status claims and status demurrals in clothing. Sartorial issues of ostentation vs. understatement, overdressing vs. underdressing, conspicuous poverty and the commission of disingenuous mistakes in dress reflect this underlying tension. In particular, the maid-inspired little black dress of the 1920s and 30s and, more recently, the fluctuating status symbolism attaching to blue jeans afford dramatic evidence of the play of status ambivalences in clothing. Identity ambivalence, in general, constitutes an important symbolic resource for fashion's constant forays upon established dress codes.A prior version of this paper was read at the meetings of the American Sociological Association, Atlanta, Ga., August 28, 1988. I wish to thank theQualitative Sociology editors and an anonymous referee for their many useful suggestions for revision.     

Shifting the burden of proof

The law places an extremely heavy burden of proof on those who wish to remove life support--even for patients in persistent vegetative states. A number of public opinion polls show that up to 85 percent of Americans would not want artificial nutrition and hydration for themselves under such circumstances. In light of these findings, a different evidentiary standard is appropriate.     

Impacts of domestic population dynamics and foreign wood trade on deforestation: a world-system perspective

World system theory posits that core nations control global production processes through their economic and political-military strength, while countries at the periphery remain technologically underdeveloped and operate from a position of dependency. Rapid changes such as population growth and rural encroachment have spurred environmental degradation in the intermediary semi-periphery countries. The effects of world system structure on national deforestation were investigated in a quantitative, cross-national analysis of data from 60 core, semi-peripheral, and peripheral countries. This analysis revealed that rural population growth has had a deleterious effect on forestation throughout the world system. However, the impact of general population growth has been negative only in non-core countries. As hypothesized, forest exports have resulted in ecologic devastation in the periphery of the world system, but have exerted a favorable effect for core countries where reforestation programs dominate. These findings suggest that population growth per se is not the critical factor in environmental degradation. Urged are further quantitative evaluations of the environmental impact of other international commodity trades.     

Objectives, missions and performance measures in multinationals

This article examines performance evaluation systems of fifteen multinationals — five German, five UK and five US — and how they relate to corporate strategy or mission statements in each case. The technique of analysis used is the multilayered case study approach, and includes ‘face-to-face’ interviews.The results, by authors Jeffrey Coates, Edward Davis, Stephen Longden, Raymond Stacey (Aston University) and Clive Emmanuel (University of Glasgow), are very instructive. The cases show a consistent use of missions/strategies, objectives and performance measures within the companies, but wide variation between them. Detailed tables are presented which show clearly the range of variation between the companies and countries concerned.     

Processes Linking Social Class and Racial Socialization in African American Dual-Earner Families

We examined the links between social class, occupational self-direction, self-efficacy, and racial socialization in a sample of 128 two-parent African American couples raising adolescents. A series of multivariate, multilevel models revealed that mothers' SES was connected to self-efficacy via its association with occupational self-direction; in turn, self-efficacy partially explained the association between occupational self-direction and racial socialization. The link between maternal self-efficacy and racial socialization depended on whether or not children had experienced discrimination. For fathers, a strong link between SES and occupational self-direction emerged, but significant associations were not found between occupational self-direction and self-efficacy, or self-efficacy and racial socialization. The discussion focuses on mother-father differences and the role of child effects in racial socialization.     

A Heavenly Collaboration: Social Workers and Churches Working to Increase Advance Directive Completion among African American Elderly

The Patient Self-Determination Act (PSDA) was enacted in 1990 as a guarantee to patients that their wishes surrounding end-of-life care would be honored if they expressed verbally or through advance directives the desired level of care they wished to receive at the end of life. Research shows that African Americans have the lowest percentage of advance directives completed among the major racial groups in the United States despite the PSDA's purpose. African American elderly rely on community supports such as social workers and the church to meet physical and spiritual needs. However, these two entities have yet to collaborate to eradicate the dismal percentages of completed advance directives among African American elderly. This article explores how the religious community and social workers can work toward educating this population on the importance of advance directives and empowering them to take the necessary steps at completion if they choose to do so.     

The politics of water scarcity in the western states

Water is a scarce and highly prized commodity in the arid Western states. Not surprisingly, water policy creation is very much a challenge for a number of reasons. Citizens hold multiple water values such as economic development and the protection of wildlife which are often contradictory. State prior appropriation laws are not easily reconciled with federal reserve rights and the public trust doctrine. There are multiple governmental and nongovernmental actors who work to influence and implement policy in a decentralized political system. If actors lose a policy battle in one decisionmaking arena (such as a legislature), they often try to influence policy at another venue (a court, Congress or an agency). Policymaking involves water issues that are dynamic over time. Furthermore, there are several types of water policy (distributive, allocative, redistributive and cooperative) that vary according to who pays costs and receives benefits, the level of conflict, the openness of decisionmaking to interested parties, and the level of government which dominates. Long ago, Mark Twain was correct when he said “Whiskey’s for drinking, water’s for fighting about.”     

Needs Assessment, Street-level Bureaucracy and the New Community Care

In the wake of the Seebohm reforms of the personal social services, a number of studies were carried out in the 1970s to explore the role of frontline professionals in identifying and meeting social need. A common finding was that social workers behaved like "street-level bureaucrats", using their discretionary authority defensively to manage an otherwise overwhelming workload. In the 1990s, top-down assessment and care management systems were put in place as part of community care reforms. Their aim was to reduce the scope of professional discretion so as to standardize responses to need and control demand according to resources available. In this paper, the authors consider the success of new systems in controlling "bottom-up" decision-making by drawing on a recent empirical study of needs assessment practice in three types of social work team. They point out that the assessment practice of those teams facing the highest bombardment rates was most obviously criteria-driven, reinforced by the use of new technology. Rather than creating informal stereotypes to manage demand, social workers could mobilize legitimate forms of rationing to protect their time and other resources. Yet the sense of professional identity, the level of frontline autonomy, and the ways in which this was exercised, varied across the different types of team. The authors conclude, therefore, that the scope of discretionary space available to frontline staff in social services departments, and the practices to which it gives rise, are empirical questions only adequately addressed by methodologies able to connect with "bottom-up" decision-making.