试析台湾期刊出版业的现状与发展

从业人员的教育背景与年龄结构、期刊种类和地域分布是台湾地区期刊业基本的现实要素;新闻类、学习类以及男女时尚杂志构成竞争基本格局;专业化的市场定位使得期刊能够不断获得其他媒体的市场份额;自营为主、代销为辅,改变着以往依靠订购的单一发行通道;用各种规模的资本量、以股份有限公司为主要形式,台湾地区期刊从业者在艰难地开辟着大陆市场。     

Clothing and social movements: Tibet and the politics of dress

The ‘cultural turn’ in social movement studies has brought a renewed outlook on new social movements and lifestyle movements. In this development on the symbolic challenge of contemporary movements, research has expanded to both music and art. However, little is known about the role of clothing in movements and how activists use it for social change. In making the case for a greater consideration of clothing’s tactical use in identity work, this paper explores the case of the Tibetan Lhakar movement. I argue that for Lhakar activists, clothing is the materialization of the political consciousness of the movement and symbolically acts as a mechanism of communication in shaping its political goals. By using social media to observe individualized collective actions of wearing Tibetan clothing, the paper demonstrates how activists frame and create new political opportunity structures for civic participation in a one party state that controls all speech and movement.     

Who knows what? Reconfiguring the governance and the capabilities of the supply chain between physical and digital processes in the fashion industry

Abstract

On the basis of an exploratory multiple-case qualitative longitudinal study in the fashion industry, this article describes how digital technologies enabled choices among different types of supply chain governance. In doing so, this study responds to calls for governance-oriented longitudinal explorations and suggests an alternative path of governance choices in which the digital technologies become the platform that allows a dynamic discourse between outsourcer and outsourcee. Our results show that, when firms decide to leverage their performances through the adoption of information technology, they need to define their knowledge transfer capacities in order to adopt the appropriate type of governance model. With this article, we contribute to the global value chain literature adding to the knowledge transfer dimension.     

模因论视角下的谣言传播机制研究

谣言是被人们捏造出来的缺乏事实依据、并通过一定手段在公共媒体推动与传播的言论,在社会交际之中属于一种另类流行语.文章从模因论的角度出发,尝试性探讨在言语交际中谣言的模因传播机制,提出谣言信息散发需要经过输入理解、简化模仿、强化复制和流布输出等四个运行过程,才可能成为盛传一时的谣言模因.     

Implementation of customisation strategies in collaborative networks through an innovative Reference Framework

Consumer needs and expectations of specific target groups – such as elderly, obese, disabled or diabetic persons – are arising as challenging opportunities for European companies which are asked to supply innovative customised goods of high quality at affordable price. This is particularly true in the fashion as well as in the orthopaedic sector where there are many different competences to conjugate to offer dedicated products to the mentioned target groups. This paper aims at proposing a reference model to support companies in defining collaborative supply networks for customised production. In particular, this work describes the implementation of the developed model in a real case highlighting the changes implied at network level to address the need for fashionable and healthy products.     

发展时尚创意产业 打造国际时尚都心

静安区是上海国际购物天堂的重要标志性地区和最具时尚品位的中心城区之一,以＂梅、泰、恒＂商圈和静安寺地区为代表的一批高品位、大容量的商业商务楼宇,集聚了众多国际知名消费品企业运营中心和高端国际品牌。但由于产业链只有单一的销售环节,静安只能称之为国际品牌的集散地和国际时尚潮流的跟随者。为适应转变发展方式和培育区域经济新增长点的需要,静安区亟需突破资源瓶颈,聚焦和整合时尚产业链要素,着力推进时尚产业与创意产业的融合发展,进一步优化商业商务运营环境,全力打造国际时尚都心,努力实现从＂跟随潮流＂向＂引领潮流＂转变,走出一条具有静安特色的发展新路。     

唐代长江上中游地区服饰文化考

唐代长江上中游地区的服饰文化,是特定的民族心理、风格、气质、个性的物质、反映,其次是特定的时代风尚、民族宗教和信仰崇拜的再现,也是对当时某种历史功绩的纪念和生动体现,代表着当时人们对理想王国的寄托、追求和向往。同时,它也以简洁的文化要素和服饰线条展示出当时人们对生活美感的追求和社会人伦的风范。     

时尚的幻象与殖民化——基于鲍德里亚的消费社会理论

在现代消费社会,时尚作为一种意识形态和消费方式运用多种手段进行消费的殖民化活动,妄图实现其霸权主义的目标。尽管时尚的符号体系控制着消费大众的思想和行为,但它只是一种幻象。认识时尚的本质及运行机制对践行科学发展与和谐社会建设有重要的理论和现实意义。     

从流行歌曲视角看唐宋词的“另类”文体特性

作为当时的＂流行歌曲＂,唐宋词以娱乐大众、表现日常生活为创作旨归,借助于商品流通的渠道广泛流播于民间,这是对以＂传道＂、＂言志＂为核心的传统文学观的反叛。曲子词包括艳情性、通俗性和时尚性在内的各种＂另类＂特征,不但丰富了文学史的内容,也为后代＂流行歌曲＂的蓬勃发展确立了成功的典范。并且从某种意义上说,唐宋词赖以繁荣的动力,也正来自于这些＂另类＂特征的凸显和不断强化。     

时装:波德莱尔审美现代性思想的参照和象征

波德莱尔美学思想的研究者一般都认为,在《现代生活的画家》中,波德莱尔主要是以介绍与自己同时代的法国画家贡斯当丹.居伊为契机,展开自己关于审美现代性的论述的。但是,从服装史的角度看,在《现代生活的画家》中,波德莱尔是以一个艺术评论家、美学理论家最敏锐的视角,主要以服装、尤其以不断变化的服装即时装作为观察和研究对象,论述他的审美现代性思想的,从而开创了美学史上一个划时代的认识上的转变,即从一种由来已久的永恒性美学转变到一种瞬时性与内在性的美学,其核心价值是变化和新奇。时装是波德莱尔论述审美现代性思想的主要参照和象征。