时装画与服装文化

时装画是为了服装的设计、制作和推介而创作的具有审美价值的绘画样式。时装画对于服装文化的发展具有推动作用 ,探讨和研究时装画产生、发展的历史和现状 ,对于发展中国的服装文化 ,具有重要的意义。     

儒家思想对汉民族服饰观负面影响二题

文章论述了传统的等级与礼教等思想对汉民族服饰观的负面影响 ,表现为服饰的森严的等级观念和趋同的服饰心理     

近现代贵州苗族服饰文化的变迁

贵州苗族有丰富的服饰文化。近现代以来,贵州苗族服饰文化发生了文化变迁,建国后其服饰文化更是经历了变化、衰落、复兴的曲折过程,表现出顽强的生命力。     

服装制板、打板在实践应用中的探索

从服装企业生产的角度,阐述了服装制板、打板在生产实践中的具体应用。并结合实践经验,分析总结了针对不同情况与要求如何快速、准确、合理地制板、打板,以便为服装生产企业提供优质、方便、快捷的技术服务,促进服装企业的快速发展。     

服装黑白色的永恒特征

一切视觉表象都是由色彩和亮度产生的,那界定形状的轮廓线,是眼睛区分几个在亮度和色彩方面都绝然不同的区域时推导出来的。色彩在服装中的表现力是极强的,是服装款式所不能替代的,特别是色彩的表情作用、象征性、情感表露、意志性的体现,使服装的蕴涵更充实。本文讲述了作为流行色的旋转中轴———黑白色,它没有时段性的流行特征,而是永久的流行色,具有永恒的特征。     

不同权力结构下制造商双渠道供应链的博弈分析

在单个拥有线下传统批发及线上直销双渠道的制造商和单个零售商组成的供应链中,基于供应链成员博弈权力的差异,构建制造商占优或零售商占优的两类Stackelberg博弈及双方同等权力的Nash博弈模型,分析了三种博弈权力结构对供应链成员价格,需求和利润的影响。研究发现：当制造商线下传统批发渠道所占市场份额较小时,（1）渠道交叉价格弹性系数为0时和不为0时,三种博弈权力结构对制造商双渠道供应链均衡解的影响具有一定的鲁棒性;（2）三种博弈权力结构下,制造商线上直销渠道价格相同;两类Stackelberg博弈权力结构下,线下传统批发渠道价格相同且大于Nash博弈下的传统渠道价格;制造商批发价格随其博弈主导地位下降逐渐降低;（3）当渠道交叉价格弹性系数为0时,三种博弈权力结构对线上直销渠道需求的影响是无差异的;当渠道间交叉价格弹性系数不为0时,两类Stackelberg博弈权力结构下的线下传统批发渠道需求相同且小于Nash博弈下的传统渠道需求,线上直销渠道需求相同且大于Nash博弈下的线上直销渠道需求;（4）三种博弈策略下,制造商收益及零售商收益随其博弈主导地位下降逐渐降低;Nash博弈下,供应链总利润最大。     

论中国古代服饰广告的传播特色

中国古代的服饰具有广告的属性和特征,它是古代广告媒介的重要形态之一.中国古代服饰广告历史悠久,并经过了一个漫长的发展和演进过程.中国古代服饰广告丰富多彩,色彩、款式、图案、纹饰等构成服饰广告的主要元素.中国古代服饰广告文化是中国民俗文化的重要组成部分,有着重要的文化意义和社会意义.     

Predatory purchasing practices in global apparel supply chains and the employment relations squeeze in the Indian garment export industry

While the literature has long acknowledged worker rights abuses in global apparel supply chains, less attention has been paid to the recent worsening of certain decent work deficits and its causes, which this article links to predatory purchasing practices arising from growing power asymmetries. These practices, illustrated here by the garment export industry in India, exert downward pressure on wages and incite non‐standard forms of employment and greater verbal and physical abuse as productivity demands rise. They can be addressed through pricing mechanisms that cover the cost of decent work, appropriate State regulation and worker involvement.     

Collecting loss

ABSTRACT

‘Collecting Loss’ develops themes from Pleasures Taken (Mavor, Duke University Press, 1995) with an emphasis on the fetishization of photographs and old clothes (exemplified, on the one hand, in Elin O'Hara Slavick's own girlhood dresses that she has stitched with haunting memories of her childhood, and on the other hand in the lush photographs taken by Sally Mann and the Victorian photographer Clementina Hawarden). As Christian Boltanski has written: ‘What they [clothing and photographs] have in common is that they are simultaneously presence and absence. They are both an object and a souvenir of a subject, exactly as a cadaver is both an object and a souvenir of a subject.’ Reading an old photographic album made by her own grandmother against other maternal collections of plenitude (whether they be old clothes or photographs or domestic bric-a-brac), Mavor reveals how such accumulated goods are made to fill in for the pangs of loss: lost childhoods, lost family histories, lost memories, lost friends. Mixing corporeality and critical theory, Mavor engages with Emily Apter's notion of ‘maternal collectomania’ as a site of provocative meanings worthy of placement alongside more conventional discourses on visual representation and collecting.     

《刘子·贵农章》经济思想考察

"贵农"的思想宗旨既总结和传承以前以农立国,崇本抑末的政治理念,也是为解决当时的社会政治问题提出的经济方略,再次提出衣食为民之本,民又为国之本。强调人民"衣食饶足"是整个社会稳定基础,以及国家粮食储备事关重大,减轻农民的徭役负担等一系列"贵农"爱民基本方略。