《仪礼·丧服》与其他先秦文献所载丧服制度之比较研究

《仪礼·丧服》经、传的基本内容虽然大多在其他先秦文献中有所反映 ,但其他先秦文献中也记载了不少与《仪礼·丧服》经、传相歧异的内容。之所以会产生这样的歧异 ,一方面是由于《仪礼·丧服》所记述的丧服制度已经过儒家学者的加工整理 ,其中已加入了加工整理者的一些主张和理想 ,而其他先秦文献所载则往往是当时实际实行中的丧服礼俗 ,因而二者出现一些歧异是不足为怪的。另一方面 ,可能还与丧服制度的发展演变有关 ,由于《仪礼·丧服》是春秋战国之际儒家学者对宗周时代流传下来的丧服礼俗加以编订整理的结果 ,其内容相对于其他先秦文献所载春秋战国时代实际实行的丧服礼俗肯定有滞后性 ,这也势必决定了二者会存在某些歧异。     

“降服”论略

对我国古代丧服制度中的降服义例进行了较为全面系统的分析和论述。依据降服的不同原因将降服概括划分为八种类型 ,并分类进行了考察和阐述。     

零售制造商:快时尚品牌的模块化组织

2012年以来,李宁等国内运动品牌和休闲、男装品牌频频关店,而UNIQLO等四大国际快时尚品牌却快速发展,不断新增中国门店。文章基于模块化理论,分析了快时尚品牌的模块化组织模式和运作机制,以期对国内服装品牌走出低谷有所启迪。作为零售制造商,快时尚品牌自营店铺捕捉需求变化,运用模块化设计快速微创新,制定产品质量标准约束模块供应商,敏捷制造,并充分发挥总部职能,提供店铺开发、面料采购等生产性服务,从而实现高质量的时尚产品低价、快速面市。     

《仪礼·丧服》的亲属称谓所反映的上古婚姻遗俗

《仪礼·丧服》经、传全面系统地记载了周代亲属之间的丧服关系 ,因而也就较全面、系统地反映了周代的亲属称谓制度。通过它所记录下来的亲属称谓制度 ,如“舅”、“姑” ,从父、从母 ,“女至”与“昆弟之子” ,“女弟”、“女以”等 ,可以发现许多与之相应的上古婚姻遗俗或上古姻缘形式的遗迹     

子夏与《丧服传》关系考论

《丧服传》与子夏的关系是一个聚讼不已的老问题,对这一问题作较为全面、系统的考察、分析和论述可从以下两方面着手:一方面通过论证子夏在儒学史上的学术地位,认定子夏具备传授《丧服传》的资质和条件;另一方面通过分析《丧服传》与其他两部据说也由子夏所传授的儒家经典《公羊传》、《谷梁传》在文本上的内在相似性,说明子夏"传"和部分撰写《丧服传》的可能性。因此,否定子夏"传"《丧服传》缺乏理据。《丧服传》虽然不一定完全由子夏所撰作,但《丧服传》为子夏所"传"之说是基本可信的。     

MADE IN THE USA: LATINAS/OS?, GARMENT WORK AND ETHNIC CONFLICT IN LOS ANGELES' SWEAT SHOPS

In the 1990s Latino identity is increasingly constructed as a ‘universal’, ‘classless’ and genderless pan-ethnicity. In this article I problematize this construct through an ethnographic study of Latina workers in the Los Angeles garment industry whose jobs are not only gender and ethnic specific but also immigrant specific. These women are located at the bottom of a complex organizational structure of an industry that promotes Third World conditions in the US in addition to promoting inter-ethnic and intra-ethnic conflict among workers. The voiced testimonies of these Latina garment workers provide a vivid record of contractor abuse, the unrelenting demands and difficulties of garment work, and the exploitative conditions and ethnic rivalries that make it difficult for Latinas to forge an effective culture of resistance. I argue that the survival of Latina garment workers rests on their ability to negotiate collaborative relations based on their unique struggles and experiences within the garment industry as women, immigrants, racialized workers and specific types of Latina Americanas. Finally, I highlight the importance of recording the insights of those women who not only experience the contemporary conditions of global capitalism, but also endeavour to speak rather than silence these conditions.     

"国服"概念与中国现代服饰文化状态

中国现代服饰文化具有明显的殖民主义特征。著名学者萨依德的后殖民主义理论在上个世纪90年代被引入后,中国学界开始对本民族文化所处状态进行反思。"国服"概念的提出正是在这一文化背景下服饰文化学者们对中国服饰文化所处状态反思的结果。中国服饰文化必须对丢失的传统进行重拾、修复和重建,以此为中国从服装大国走向服装强国提供强大的文化支撑。     

Perceived risk associated with apparel purchasing in discount stores

Consumer discount store patronage preferences for apparel are investigated using the concept of perceived risk. Apparel items are assigned a type and level of risk: low social, low economic; high social, low economic; and high social, high economic. Females (N=222) responding to a mail survey rate their willingness to purchase each item in a discount store on a scale ofprefer to buy, may buy, ornever buy. Results suggest that consumer preference for purchasing in discount stores declines more sharply when economic risk increases than when social risk increases.Teresa A. Summers is Associate Professor of the School of Human Ecology, Textiles, Apparel Design and Merchandising at Louisiana State University, Baton Rouge, LA 70803. She received her Ph.D. from Texas Woman's University. Her research interest includes rural/urban consumer responses to changes in the marketplace.Frances C. Lawrence is Professor of the School of Human Ecology, Family, Child, and Consumer Sciences at Louisiana State University, Baton Rouge, LA 70803. She received her Ph.D. from Florida State University. Her research interests include family financial decision-making and family time use.Janice L. Haynes is Assistant Professor of the School of Human Ecology, Textiles, Apparel Design and Merchandising at Louisiana State University, Baton Rouge, LA 70803. She received her Ph.D. from Texas Woman's University. Her research interest includes retail patronage of specialized consumer market segments.Patricia J. Wozniak is Associate Professor of the Department of Experimental Statistics at Louisiana State University, Baton Rouge, LA 70803. She received her Ph.D. from the University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee. Her research interests include survey methodology and rural families.     

“洁、雅、宜”——略论李渔对于女子服饰的审美理想

清代戏剧理论家李渔的服装审美思想是值得重视的,他的这些思想集中保存在<闲情偶寄>中.李渔就妇女的穿着打扮提出"洁"、"雅"、"宜"原则,并且对传统的黑色作了美学分析,甚至对妇女首饰佩带等提出了自己的美学思想.