论宋代服饰文化的儒雅化趋向

以往的服饰史论者过多地强调宋代服饰的保守和封闭,其实,儒雅化才是宋代服饰最重要的特征.在宋代,无论士庶服饰还是军戎服饰,都具有明显的儒雅化趋向.宋代服饰文化之所以走向儒雅化,原因虽是多方面的,但关键的有两个方面:一是"重文轻武"的基本国策,不仅提高了文臣地位,而且极大地推动了教育的普及,这是宋代服饰文化趋向儒雅化的社会政治和文化原因.二是儒学的复兴和理学的构建是宋代服饰文化儒雅化的深刻社会思想和道德原因.宋代服饰文化儒雅化不仅是对唐代开放、热烈、张扬的服饰风尚的一种革新,而且对后世尤其是明代服饰无论在形式上还是观念上,都有着一种极其深刻的影响.

On Scholarized Tendency of Dress Culture in Song Dynasty

The earlier dress historians put too much emphasis on the conservatism and closeness of the dress in Song Dynasty.In fact,the scholarization is the most important characteristics of the dress in Song Dynasty.In Song Dynasty,the dresses of both literary men and soldiers have the tendency of scholarization,which is due to many causes.Among these,two aspects are the most important.One is the basic national policy of "valuing literati and belittling force",which not only improved the position of civil officials but also greatly promoted the popularity of education.This is the political and cultural reason of the tendency.The other is that the revival of Confucianism and the construction of science form the deep ideological and moral reason.The scholarization of dress culture in Song Dynasty is an innovation of dress fashion in Tang Dynasty that was open,impassioned and insolent,and it also has a most deep effect on both the form and the concept of the dress of later generations,especially in Ming Dynasty.