近代山东服饰变迁述论

近代山东的服饰变迁,是政治变革、西俗东渐和文明开化的产物。以新潮服饰为先导的多元化服饰结构的形成;服饰上华夷大防的消失;服饰新潮的领导者由个体名人、妓女,转变为具有高层文化素养的学界群体,都反映了山东服饰近代化的进程。然而,服饰变迁又来自中国国情和传统服饰文化“根”的呼唤：实现民主共和的革命与“易服色”成为跨越时代的知音;剪发易服暗示着帝制与共和的抉择,曾被人讪笑的“大脚”适应了男人的审美要求;等级服饰框定的审美是一种雷同型的和谐美,而不是超越型的反差美。步履蹒跚的山东服饰印记着山东人重礼义名节、自尊自信、保守内敛的个性。

The Dress and Personal Adornment Change In Modern Shandong Province

The dress and personal adornment change in modern shandong province was the result of the political transformation, the in-fluence of the wesern customs on the Eastern Society and the modem civilization The Vcisstudes of clothing that was leaded by thenew dressing trends formed. The obstruction betwee the Chinese and foreigners gradually faded. The leaders of the new dressingtrends became the groups with high educational level instead of the famous persons and prostitutes. All of the above-mentioned showedthe new tendency of the dressing modernization in shandong province. However, the dress and personal adornment Change was fromthe calling of the Chinese national conditions and the "roots"of the traditional dressing culture. The revolution realizing republic anddemocracy and "change the clothes"bacame the familiar of the age; The cutting plaits and changing dresses Implied the choice betweenthe republic and the monarchy;The"big foot"that was once ridiculed by people had been suited to men's aesthetic conception. The aes-thetic conception constrained by dressing hierarchy was a harmonious beauty of identical type: not a contrast beauty of transcendentaltype; The dress and personal adornment change; full of defficulties, marked the characters of shandong people such as laying stress onpropriety, righteous ness, honesty, being self - respect, self-confident, cautious and conservtive.