赣南客家传统服饰原材料之历史考察

通过梳理赣南地区客家传统服饰原材料苎麻、葛、棉、蚕桑、蓝靛的生产、销售等历史情况,发现客家传统服饰的制作原材料以苎麻、葛、棉为主料,以丝绸为辅料,染料则以蓝靛为主。明清时期,苎麻、葛、蓝靛在赣南种植规模大,而棉、丝绸仅少量生产,大多是从外地买入。夏布和蓝靛交易非常活跃,对赣南客家传统服饰乃对当地的经济和社会影响重大。

Historical Study of Raw Material of Hakkas' Traditional Dress in GanNan

This paper points out that there are plenty of raw materials of Hakkas＇ traditional dress in Gan- Nan, such as hemp, Ge,indigo blue. Except these three, cotton and silk have also been used to make traditional dress for Hakka. This text studies the producing of these five raw materials of Hakkas traditional dress and the sales about them. Among these five,hemp,Ge,cotton are the principal raw material;silk is an accessory;indigo blue is the main dye;silk and cotton are almostly bought in out-of-town;the trade on grass cloth and indigo blue is flourishing which has a singinficant impact on economic and society of GanNan.