苗族服饰与苗族自我认同意识——以清朝至民国时期的贵州苗族改装运动为中心

以贵州为中心，回顾从清朝到民国时期的苗族传统服饰所受的来自中央政权统治的影响，可以看出统治者所采取的改装政策，在不同程度上使苗族受到了一种来自“他者”的欺压，从而形成了一种荣辱与共的历史背景，强化了作为个体的苗族自我认同意识。而中华民国的诞生给苗族带来了更加复杂的外部环境。被卷入近代国家建构过程中的苗族，更深地陷入了对汉族的抵触感与不得不接受汉文化影响的无奈感的矛盾中。与此同时，新一代的苗族精英开始以超越地域局限的视角来思索自己的民族，提升其民族自豪感。“国家”、“苗族”、“不同地域的苗族支系”这样一种重层意识被强化，而苗族传统服饰的存在和变化加深了这种多重性的苗族自我认同意识。

A Brief Discussion on Miao Costume and the Awareness of Miao Self- Identity --Focusing on Guizhou during the Period from the Qing to the Republic of China

Historically, the Miao had no unified writing system. The historical records that we read today are mostly recorded from the perspective of ＂the other＂. We know that ＂historical memory＂ is a significant factor for the formation of a group＇s awareness of its self - identity. This means that the writings of ＂historical memory＂, one of the important factors for the formation of the Miao＇s awareness of their self - identity, were constructed by ＂ the other＂ However, was the ＂ historical memory＂ of the Miao only constructed by ＂the other＂？ Did they inherit some other forms of expression constructed from their own perspective？ Actually, in addition to ancient songsand oral heritage, Miao costume, with its rich and deeply symbolic designs, is one of these expressions.