三至九世纪流行的袴褶服与南北文化的融合

三至九世纪是南北民族文化相互交融的重要时期,而服饰的变革演化正是颇能映见其融合程度的一个多姿多彩的方面,其中最具革命意义的无疑是在此期间流行广泛并体现着北方民族特点与中原传统风习相结合的袴褶服.本文从其创制于北方与西北方部族、融入中原之时代情形及其因素、基本形制的改进及其与中原服饰的融合以及其流行与消亡诸方面予以探讨.着重指出:两汉以前无袴褶之制,五代以后亦不再著袴褶;以其带有明显的胡服特征而不具正统资格,遂在唐代以后终为一种新型而便利的正统常服--中原袍服所替代,故未能成为中原朝服、公服乃至常服之主流.

The Popular ' Ku Xi' Clothing in the Period from 3rd to 9th Century and the Culture Mixing of Northern and Southern

The 3rd to 9th Century is an important period for the mixing of Northern and Southern culture. The evolution of clothing is one aspect which reflects the level of culture mixing. Thus,Ku Xi,a kind of clothes which combines the feature of Northern people and the traditional custom of the central plains,is worth for observation. This article takes a close look at the short life of Ku Xi,focusing on the emergency of the Northern people,the culture mixing,and the reason why Ku Xi became popular and then disappe...